it’s solitude and community. it can be tranquil and oftentimes thrilling. the waves make you feel weightless and completely free, and then they pound you down with unimaginable force. sometimes you paddle back and forth and wait in the line-up all day for just 5 seconds of hang time. but those 5 seconds are worth all the soreness, the waiting, and the sunburn on your lower back.
surfing is art, it’s passion, and a way of being…and it might as well be a drug because i’m addicted.
goofy. my first surfing lesson was actually a huge inflection point – i found out i’m goofy. this simply means i stand with my right foot in front, whereas regular people lead with their left. it actually made a huge difference because i had been snowboarding before and never figured out what was out of place. the first time i caught a wave, i was only up for maybe a second, but it was the most amazing feeling. it just felt right.
tranquil. my most memorable surfing experience was sitting out on the water watching perfect, glassy waves at 5:30am in costa rica. i was barely conscious from lack of sleep so i appreciated the calming feel of the gently rolling waves as the sun began to rise. the feeling of zen achieved on this morning really set the tone for how i aspire to live my life. that morning i attempted a gnarly 5-footer and actually managed to ride it out.
unspoken camaraderie. one of the most interesting experiences of surfing is the automatic inclusion in to a community. everyone is friendly and carefree, throwing a shaka or a smile your way if you’re out on the waves. i remember sitting in the line-up in waikiki for hours upon end and never speaking to anyone else but feeling a sense of belonging and a common desire to catch a perfect wave. other times i can meet fellow surfers and automatically bond over this common love, causing us to talk a mile per minute without coming up for air. it’s such a great feeling to have this immediate connection.
i’m grasping on to these amazing memories but really need a taste of the waters again soon. current plans are to head down to el salvador this july for my birthday, so if you’ll be nearby, grab a board and let’s catch a wave! surf’s up.